Oaxaca Day Two

Mornings are my favorite time, no matter where I am in the world. Most especially though when they’re cool and breezy, and I can find a good place to sit and watch the world go by. My ritual in Oaxaca then was to let my daughter sleep in a bit while I ventured down the stairs to the cafe in our building, Punto Paz. From a little outside table, I watched a group of women do what can only be described as Oaxacan Zumba in the park across the street, guided by one of those enthusiastic instructors that you’ll find anywhere. He brought the energy; they always do. While they did their exercise routine, I caught up on emails and sipped a delicious, very strong, cappuccino. Afterall, Oaxaca produces some of the world’s best coffee.

When my daughter got up, we ambled to La Atoleria to try an ancient, local morning beverage, atole. This is a masa-based beverage that has pre-Hispanic origins. In Nahuatl the word is atolli. They boil different masas with different ingredients to craft unique combinations. We tried two different offerings. One that was comprised of three different masas: yellow, blue and red corn. And one that was yellow masa with chocolate and cinnamon. Both were slightly sweet, soothing. The result is something like drinking a warm sweet tortilla. Not unpleasant at all though! In fact, felt comforting like a warm hug. Atole is decidedly not filling nor caffeinated, however, so that was our next mission.

Onnno Panaderia was our destination. The owners of this spot are Estefania and Gustavo, and they have traveled the world to learn the craft of baking and hospitality. They turned what they learned into an art, specific to the flavors of Oaxaca. They also had bottles of horchata-cold brew, the perfect cold coffee beverage to caffeinate us and delight our palate. The chocolate-cream croissant and guava cake accompanied. Yum!

After getting fortified we walked and walked and walked. There are so many colors and murals and arts, it felt like everywhere the eye turned there was some beauty, some shadow on a wall, something to stop and admire. And so many museums. Museum of Cultures charges for entry, only about 100 pesos, but it is well worth it for the historical information about Oaxaca and the sixteen individual ethnic groups who have maintained their customs, languages, and traditions to this day.

For lunch we stopped at a park and grabbed a torta from La Hormiga. Tortas are sandwiches filled with anything from beans and peppers to griddled meat and avocado. We chose a torta with ham, cheese, pineapple and jalapeno, and sat in a shady spot in the park to people watch and enjoy.

In the evening our plan was to meet up with our friend Eddie and his fiance to attend an art opening, and then dine at one of their favorite restaurants, Humar. On route, out of nowhere, the skies clouded over and absolutely dumped rain. Luckily we had dipped into a store and were thus protected. Thunder, lightning, rivers of rain washing the sidewalks clean. And then, nada. Just clean, fresh air. It was unexpected for Oaxacans, but for us Northern Californians, totally surprising and wonderful.

To Humar we raced. The food was great: fish broth sips, shrimp empanada, tuna tostada and a surprising shrimp burger. But it was the mocktails that got me. The drink menu changes all the time so whatever they offer, grab. Great care and attention to a mocktail portends that same level will be extended to everything else, in my book.

We walked back, sated, enjoying our friends' blossoming love, ready for what the next day would bring: work…